Sunday, Bhaju, my library clerk invited me to the town of Bhaktapur which is about a 45 minute taxi ride west of the city. There was a festival going on called Gai Jatra, which is also known as the "Cow Festival." This is a festival honoring family and friends who have died during the last year. It is believed that cows guide the dead to Yama, the god of the underworld in the Hindu religion.
This festival is celebrated in the Bhaktapur Durbar Square (or Palace Square, many towns have a Durbar Square.) This is one of the oldest parts of the city, filled with red brick buildings and dark wood, narrow alleyways paved with the same red bricks, temples (both Hindu and Buddhist), shops, restaurants and three big squares. The families of the dead parade around a tall, white 'stupa' with the picture of the deceased, sometimes there are marching bands playing, or boys dressed up in masks doing a stick dance, or there is a cart with a statue of a cow being wheeled around. There are family and friends playing the flute, crashing symbols, playing something like a mini piano. The bystanders give gifts of food and sweets to the family as they parade by. There were at least 50 different families that I saw parading around. Even though it is honoring the dead, it is a celebration.
After the festival got a bit too crowded, Bhaju and I took a bus back. We arrived in a taxi with another family from the school that cost 1000 rupees (about $12) and returned by local bus for 20 rupees each. A much better bargain and took about the same amount of time. The buses are a bit hard to figure out if one does not speak Nepali as there are no signs on the buses. The bus attendant hangs out the door at each bus stop and yells the name of the destination. When you hear the right one, you get on, and we made it back to Kathamndu.
This festival is celebrated in the Bhaktapur Durbar Square (or Palace Square, many towns have a Durbar Square.) This is one of the oldest parts of the city, filled with red brick buildings and dark wood, narrow alleyways paved with the same red bricks, temples (both Hindu and Buddhist), shops, restaurants and three big squares. The families of the dead parade around a tall, white 'stupa' with the picture of the deceased, sometimes there are marching bands playing, or boys dressed up in masks doing a stick dance, or there is a cart with a statue of a cow being wheeled around. There are family and friends playing the flute, crashing symbols, playing something like a mini piano. The bystanders give gifts of food and sweets to the family as they parade by. There were at least 50 different families that I saw parading around. Even though it is honoring the dead, it is a celebration.
After the festival got a bit too crowded, Bhaju and I took a bus back. We arrived in a taxi with another family from the school that cost 1000 rupees (about $12) and returned by local bus for 20 rupees each. A much better bargain and took about the same amount of time. The buses are a bit hard to figure out if one does not speak Nepali as there are no signs on the buses. The bus attendant hangs out the door at each bus stop and yells the name of the destination. When you hear the right one, you get on, and we made it back to Kathamndu.
No comments:
Post a Comment